The Return of Galliano

After his controversial departure from the fashion industry for years ago following his anti semitic and racist comments, it looks like John Galliano has officially returned. Choosing to show case his new collection during London Collections Mens, his first collection as the creative director of Maison Martin Margiela and first collection since he was fired from Dior back in 2011. Kate Moss, Christopher Bailey and Manolo Blahnik were all there on the front row, proving he’s still respected as a designer amongst his peers. 

The collection itself was in true Galliano style: surreal and flamboyant, an ‘elaborate fusion of fine drapery and war paint, of sci-fi shoes and the kind of frontline evening dresses that could be used to go into battle.’
Many of the clothes were embellished with junk metal jewellery, while a leopard print leotard was decorated with shells and beads, and a tunic dress adorned with black plastic toy cars. 
In the past, Galliano was all about fantasy, his Dior days about whimsical, unattainable and extraordinary couture. And he has very much returned with the same aesthetic. 

While I’m not a fan of his personally, (actually to be quite frank he repulses me a little) I can’t deny that as a designer he is something rather special. His innovation and experimentation is admirable and his designs memorable. There is no doubt that John Galliano is back to stay, and back with a bang. 

The entire collection was based on black, red and white.

Fashion On Film: Scatter My Ashes At Bergdorf's

We all need fantasy, and it can be found at Bergdorf's on 5th Avenue in Manhattan. Scatter My Ashes delves into the dream and desire that fashion evokes in all its lovers, and follows to objects and people that have led to making Bergdorf Goodmans the success story it is today.

While the film itself is slightly lacking in depth and detail, it doesn't prevent you from becoming utterly enchanted with dream like world of Bergdorf's. It's a place to escape from reality and step into this fantasy land where anything is possible. At one point in the film, Robert Verdi states: 'Being able to shop at Bergdorf's is an aphrodisiac', it's a place for pleasure and nothing more high brow than that. And I think that's what Bergdorf's prides itself on so much, that escapism, a safe haven of all things fashion and luxury. And what could be more luxurious than the shoe salon! Just the name itself makes you envisage a setting so lavish and sumptuous designed for the most pampering of experiences, and this is all within a shop! Though I should really be disciplined for referring to it just as a shop. It's an elite destination for designers and discerning clientele alike. 

Designers & Fashion Elitists

From the very start of the film we are introduced to countless designers, celebrities and some of the most influential people in fashion, all of whom gush at how amazing and iconic it is. Much of that success has been from discovering and nurturing new talent. No one else could have done what Bergdorf did for their careers, and they know that. It's a benchmark for designers, that is where their aspirations lie, having their designs showcased in Bergdorf's is the making of a designer. In the words of one of the interviewees, 'If your clothes are not at that place, then your clothes have no future.' That seems to be the general consensus amongst most of the cast of the film. Everyone one of them when they spoke was both radiant and animated, showing the utmost adoration for Manhattan's most magical emporium. 

One of the most emblematic characteristics of Bergdorf's is the huge window displays that every year capture the eyes and hearts of thousands. The status of the windows means that the clothes are designed to fit the windows instead of the other way around, with designers sometimes being commissioned to make dresses especially for the window, that's how prestigious they are. They're so full of action that often they look like stills from movies, not installations ultimately designed for selling clothes. It's a huge attraction for tourists, and I myself have every intention of visiting when I go to New York in January! 

Just the most incredible visual merchandising ever, these windows are stunning!

While the documentary itself wasn't exactly academy award winning, more like one very long and ostentatious commercial, it has opened my eyes to the fascinating inner workings and remarkable untold tales of the history of the iconic Bergdorf's Goodman's. 

It's luxury, It's glamour, It's so Sex In The City

#MrQuiffy

To accompany their new collection launch that feature Mr Men and Little Miss characters, the House of Holland lot have created a social media campaign in which they have cartoonised Creative Director Henry Holland as a character from Mr Men, calling him Mr Quiffy after Holland’s signature hairstyle. They then have spent the month of October uploading photos from Mr Quiffy's world travels...

To me House of Holland and this campaign in particular is an example of promotion being done right. They're connecting with their consumers, and really embracing social media as a platform for marketing the brand. The Mr Quiffy campaign is a true reflection of the brands aesthetic: playful, tongue and cheek and oh so  fun! When it comes to brands I admire I am genuinely a huge fan of House of Holland and its Creative Director Henry Holland. Not just for the clothes, but for the brands whole image and attitude: it's all about youth and youth culture. Music, fashion, art, fiction, this brands doing it all, and doing it right. 

High end vs high-street - where do the similarities lie?

High end brands reflect the high-street, and the high-street reflects the high end. This is how fashion has always worked, an overlap of inspiration regardless of price tag or designer credits. Whether it be on the catwalk or sidewalk, fashion is telling the same stories using similar narratives, attitudes and lifestyle aspirations, but just for different market sectors. This is known as Market Level Translation. 

Tasked with identifying the common language that link two brands, I chose to look at the crossover between Chloé and Jigsaw. 

Modern Femininity: taking natural and etherial elements, and throwing in the disclaimer of structured shapes and smart tailoring. With a less is more approach and a concentration on a neutral colour palette, this ensures the focus is more refined as opposed to too girlie or fairy princess. 

JIGSAW

Chloé

I then went on to select my own two brands, using the same thought process. 

Super Chic: a wardrobe for the modern woman, elegant and refined inspired by masculine cuts and tailoring. Keeping it simple, with less is more being the key and investing in timeless, classic pieces and that perfect fit. Concentration on solid colours and classic prints: black, white, navy, neutrals; pinstripe, leopard, check. It’s about stealing from the boys and glamourising for the girls.

Yves Saint Laurent

Zara

While it's always interesting to see how designers influence high street brands via the catwalk, it also poses the question as to how designers cope with the pressure of having to keep on top of the high-street and their reactions to the imitations then found in most high street stores. However from a consumer point of view, I will always be thankful of the designer replicas on the high-street. They allow people with modest budgets like myself to not feel like they have to settle for looking crap just because they can't afford that designer price tag. As for myself, I will always be a high-street devotee. 

Inspiration...