The Return of Galliano

After his controversial departure from the fashion industry for years ago following his anti semitic and racist comments, it looks like John Galliano has officially returned. Choosing to show case his new collection during London Collections Mens, his first collection as the creative director of Maison Martin Margiela and first collection since he was fired from Dior back in 2011. Kate Moss, Christopher Bailey and Manolo Blahnik were all there on the front row, proving he’s still respected as a designer amongst his peers. 

The collection itself was in true Galliano style: surreal and flamboyant, an ‘elaborate fusion of fine drapery and war paint, of sci-fi shoes and the kind of frontline evening dresses that could be used to go into battle.’
Many of the clothes were embellished with junk metal jewellery, while a leopard print leotard was decorated with shells and beads, and a tunic dress adorned with black plastic toy cars. 
In the past, Galliano was all about fantasy, his Dior days about whimsical, unattainable and extraordinary couture. And he has very much returned with the same aesthetic. 

While I’m not a fan of his personally, (actually to be quite frank he repulses me a little) I can’t deny that as a designer he is something rather special. His innovation and experimentation is admirable and his designs memorable. There is no doubt that John Galliano is back to stay, and back with a bang. 

The entire collection was based on black, red and white.

High end vs high-street - where do the similarities lie?

High end brands reflect the high-street, and the high-street reflects the high end. This is how fashion has always worked, an overlap of inspiration regardless of price tag or designer credits. Whether it be on the catwalk or sidewalk, fashion is telling the same stories using similar narratives, attitudes and lifestyle aspirations, but just for different market sectors. This is known as Market Level Translation. 

Tasked with identifying the common language that link two brands, I chose to look at the crossover between Chloé and Jigsaw. 

Modern Femininity: taking natural and etherial elements, and throwing in the disclaimer of structured shapes and smart tailoring. With a less is more approach and a concentration on a neutral colour palette, this ensures the focus is more refined as opposed to too girlie or fairy princess. 

JIGSAW

Chloé

I then went on to select my own two brands, using the same thought process. 

Super Chic: a wardrobe for the modern woman, elegant and refined inspired by masculine cuts and tailoring. Keeping it simple, with less is more being the key and investing in timeless, classic pieces and that perfect fit. Concentration on solid colours and classic prints: black, white, navy, neutrals; pinstripe, leopard, check. It’s about stealing from the boys and glamourising for the girls.

Yves Saint Laurent

Zara

While it's always interesting to see how designers influence high street brands via the catwalk, it also poses the question as to how designers cope with the pressure of having to keep on top of the high-street and their reactions to the imitations then found in most high street stores. However from a consumer point of view, I will always be thankful of the designer replicas on the high-street. They allow people with modest budgets like myself to not feel like they have to settle for looking crap just because they can't afford that designer price tag. As for myself, I will always be a high-street devotee.