Photography essay: a little experiment

Finally have internet back, and finally can upload the little examples of my photography essay that I've been playing around with. The theme for me is how as couples, how their style evolves to match each other, and whether that statement is actually true. However there is a twist, and the pictures here will show you what I mean…


I've taken it a step further, and used a stylised approach to exaggerate the trend of couples 'merging' into one another. This particular example is my face on my boyfriend's head and I do find it rather hilarious. This is just one of the methods I'm going to use on photoshop. 
This is just a very small preview for now, don't want to give it all away too soon, but I will more than likely upload the entire finished photo essay.  



Festive Cheer

Home for Christmas, and what better way to start the holidays than an evening of carols, mulled wine and festive little stalls. Every year the town of Arundel (near where I'm from) puts on Arundel by Candlelight, a day of festive fun, mince pies, hog roasts and  lots of shopping that goes on late into the evening, and for the first time in years I was actually able to go enjoy it without working!
It's such a traditional little town, and it really manages every year to encompass the essence of a truly traditional Christmas. This post is mainly just to gush about how excited I am for the festive season (seriously I'm like a little child) and just to share my photos to get others in the Christmas spirit.










Merry Christmas everyone x

The Object Of Desire

As a sort of nice easy task before Christmas, we were set the brief The Object of Desire; to create a photo that somehow was  linked to this theme. For me when I think of desire I think of what is it that we desire the most. For a lot of us it's the desire of beauty, to be perfect in our appearance. The theme also brought to mind the idea of sexual desire. I think a red lip epitomises these two reflections perfectly, with the red lip being considered quite a sexual and provocative image as well as the seductive way in which the lips are parted. I think it also demonstrates how we use makeup to beautify ourselves, showing how we are never happy with our bodies natural appearance (something I explored in much more depth in a previous blog post on body image.) I also used the mirrored affect as a way of reflecting the vanity that this desire causes. The repetitive nature of it I think comments on the 'selfie society' that we live in, that this photo reflects that moment before a hundred selfies. 

As well as trying to create a photo that really screams desire, I also found it a good opportunity to have a play around on Photoshop, using skills such as blur and brightness enhancing, as well as discovering some new ones. I'm really trying to get in as much practice with using Photoshop as possible, as it's going to be something I'm going to rely on for my street style photo essay brief (of which I will post the finished product here), as well as countless other assignments in the future I'm sure. 

Finished product: my 'object of desire'

Fashion On Film: Scatter My Ashes At Bergdorf's

We all need fantasy, and it can be found at Bergdorf's on 5th Avenue in Manhattan. Scatter My Ashes delves into the dream and desire that fashion evokes in all its lovers, and follows to objects and people that have led to making Bergdorf Goodmans the success story it is today.

While the film itself is slightly lacking in depth and detail, it doesn't prevent you from becoming utterly enchanted with dream like world of Bergdorf's. It's a place to escape from reality and step into this fantasy land where anything is possible. At one point in the film, Robert Verdi states: 'Being able to shop at Bergdorf's is an aphrodisiac', it's a place for pleasure and nothing more high brow than that. And I think that's what Bergdorf's prides itself on so much, that escapism, a safe haven of all things fashion and luxury. And what could be more luxurious than the shoe salon! Just the name itself makes you envisage a setting so lavish and sumptuous designed for the most pampering of experiences, and this is all within a shop! Though I should really be disciplined for referring to it just as a shop. It's an elite destination for designers and discerning clientele alike. 

Designers & Fashion Elitists
From the very start of the film we are introduced to countless designers, celebrities and some of the most influential people in fashion, all of whom gush at how amazing and iconic it is. Much of that success has been from discovering and nurturing new talent. No one else could have done what Bergdorf did for their careers, and they know that. It's a benchmark for designers, that is where their aspirations lie, having their designs showcased in Bergdorf's is the making of a designer. In the words of one of the interviewees, 'If your clothes are not at that place, then your clothes have no future.' That seems to be the general consensus amongst most of the cast of the film. Everyone one of them when they spoke was both radiant and animated, showing the utmost adoration for Manhattan's most magical emporium. 

One of the most emblematic characteristics of Bergdorf's is the huge window displays that every year capture the eyes and hearts of thousands. The status of the windows means that the clothes are designed to fit the windows instead of the other way around, with designers sometimes being commissioned to make dresses especially for the window, that's how prestigious they are. They're so full of action that often they look like stills from movies, not installations ultimately designed for selling clothes. It's a huge attraction for tourists, and I myself have every intention of visiting when I go to New York in January! 

Just the most incredible visual merchandising ever, these windows are stunning!

While the documentary itself wasn't exactly academy award winning, more like one very long and ostentatious commercial, it has opened my eyes to the fascinating inner workings and remarkable untold tales of the history of the iconic Bergdorf's Goodman's. 

It's luxury, It's glamour, It's so Sex In The City











Horst P. Horst



My favourite museum in London, and a showcase of one of fashion's favourite photographers. The Victoria and Albert Museum payed tribute to Horst P. Horst in an exhibition of his work from his illustrious career spanning 6 decades. A legend in his field as well as in general, his photographs have become iconic statements of elegance, style, and classic movie star glamour. Much of his style reminds me of a lecture we had on icons of fashion. That old fashioned Hollywood charm speaks through his many of his images, especially the very elegant, black and white portraiture photos. Everything about his photos are dramatic and memorable. The black and whites are so minimal, just concentrating on contrast and light to achieve the perfect picture. The simplicity of the images makes the skill behind them even more admirable and the results even more beautiful. 

I find there is something very romantic about his style. When walking through the gallery I couldn't help but be transported back to a time of sophistication, refinement and champagne saucers. 




94 original Vogue covers shot by Horst were displayed at the exhibition, each of them beautifully preserved, more like pieces of art under the glass cabinets, not magazine covers. His sketch books were also laid out on display, like windows into the workings of the mind of a truly talented and creative genius. 


Vogue cover August 1957



There was a lot to take from the exhibition, the fact that I had only ever regarded Horst as a fashion photographer before, and knew nothing about his work with Surrealism, Nude Photography, Travel documentation as well as prints and patterns that he also photographed. It definitely gave an interesting insight into all of his work, and walking around the actual exhibition room an incredible visual experience that left me feeling a sense of longing afterwards…I want to be photographed by Horst. However that's not possible, so in the meantime I'm just going to satisfy my desire by learning and absorbing as much as his work as possible. Ultimately I would highly recommend visiting the exhibition, even if you aren't interested in fashion, you can still appreciate the remarkable talent of a man that provided so much influence to photography today, and that's something pretty special. 

Colour Mood Board - Brand Research… Zadig et Voltaire

As part of my brand story mood board, I have created a selection of small, basic photoshop compositions, visualising areas of brand research as a way of allowing myself to fully understand the image they are trying to convey. In turn i hope this will assist me in being able to create a suitable colour mood mood board truly conveying the brands aesthetic.

Advertising

Events

In store experience

Fashion Does More Harm Than Good

A recent question intent on provoking much debate was put to us in our latest seminars. Does fashion do more harm than good? It's a question both insiders and outsiders of the industry have raised countless times, and with the constant media scrutiny I can't see it ever going away. Personally I would argue in favour of this statement, for a number of reasons. There are ethical considerations, the environment, the affect it has on consumers and social well-being.
Firstly let us consider the affect the fashion industry has on individuals. The most prolific way in which it has an impact is through the subject of body image. I did some research into the subject before writing and I must admit, some of the statistics and information I found was extremely eye opening, as well as shocking. Statistics from body image campaigners Body Gossip suggest 1 in 10 young people will develop an eating disorder before the age of 25, that's with 1.6 million already currently diagnosed in the UK. Furthermore, 3 children in an average British classroom are self-harming, and 30% of boys and 70% of girls aged 11-19 state the relationship with their body as their number one worry. I couldn't believe these numbers! Even more shocking is that children as young as 7 are beginning to show serious signs of body dissatisfaction, with some even expressing wishes to start dieting. 7 years old!! At 7 I still had a bit of puppy fat, and had no idea what a diet was. I was always taught the value of eating healthily and never even contemplated the idea of dieting (mainly because I love food so much), but seeing that sort of evidence for myself actually disturbed me. And it's no wonder children feel this way when 90% of British women feel body image anxiety, these adults are passing on this message to their children.
Clearly society is concerned with the issues surrounding body image, and the dangerous and unrealistic messages being sent to young women through fashion images in magazines, catwalk shows editorials, it's impossible to escape from it. The fashion industry is undeniably guilty for contributing and often reinforcing these body image insecurities, often through the controversy of models, specifically how thin and how young they are. It is hard to deny that clothes fall better on a slimmer frame, after all models are only really meant as hangers. But there is slim and then there is dangerously skinny. Designers are possibly the most guilty of fuelling this extreme underweight obsession. Designer outfits are created around a live in house skeleton, a model with the same measurements as a pubescent boy, yet 6 ft tall. These collections are then exhibited on the runway but tall, stick thin models, because that's how the designers want to see the clothes hang. Those sample pieces are then sent to magazines who have to then find models as equally tiny and skeletal thin to display in their pages for impressionable young women to see. And with models starving themselves to secure more bookings, it's a vicious cycle: they miss out of bookings so aim to lose more weight, then they get the bookings because they've lost that weight and try to lose even more to get more bookings, it's never ending! And it's scary the extent some of them will go to to stay skinny. Often living off a diet of cigarettes and diet coke, some even resort to eating tissues, apparently because they expand and fill the stomach. Tissues really?! It seems insane! And the industry encourages this. Model agency's don't bat and eyelid at these girls obviously suffering from eating disorders, and instead feed them the bi line that the skinnier they are, they better the model they are. We can't though forget the responsibility of magazine editors for distributing these unhealthy images on a mass scale, exposing millions of suggestible women and girls to what the fashion industry considers the ideal body. There's a correlation between the rise in eating disorders in the public, and eating disorders on the runway. It's scary the influence that fashion can have on society, and even scarier when it's not a good influence. Maybe we need to take a step back from looking to fashion so much for inspiration, and concentrate on the real world instead.



Let's start a debate

Last weeks lectures and seminars were all about fashion in terms of a social context, looking at it form a global perspective from both an industry and consumer point of view, with the topic being 'Does fashion do more harm than good?' Divided into teams, we then had 3 days to argue this statement for or against. It was a case of researching and consolidating information to form our own argument in favour of this statement, and with the quick turn around that it was, I couldn't be happier with the efficiency of our group. Primary research surveys were conducted, power points put together and I felt we had all the resources needed to stand up there and put forward an really strong argument.

The debate itself was very informal, every groups presentation was heard and then the discussions commenced. I was overwhelmed by the enthusiasm and input that almost every person had. Personally I very rarely speak up much during classes, much preferring to listen, but even I couldn't resist having a voice, and quite a loud one at that. It was a frenzy of opinions and people's arguments being thrown around, original insight, interesting facts and information and generally a real learning experience. I've been doing this course for just over 2 months now, and I can honestly say that was one of the occasions I was most excited about what I was doing. To step out of my bubble of briefs and assignments, and to just learn and absorb as much information as I possibly could from the wider world. I really felt as though I was connecting with my course on a much more in depth, honest level. It made me realise how much I really do love learning, I love finding new information and expanding my knowledge and horizons. It sounds so clichĆ© and a bit silly, but that's just the way it is. 

It's Beginning To Look A Lot Like Christmas…said Harrods


One of my earliest memories of Christmas shopping probably goes back to when I was about 7(ish), with my parents taking my brother, sister and I to London on a cold December Saturday, wrapped up to our eyeballs in wooly scarves and hats and ambling us round the streets of Knightsbridge, Leicester Square, Oxford Street and all the major shopping haunts of Ye Olde London town. Back then I was probably more interested in Hamleys then Harvey Nicks, but the common factor that provided so much appeal has always been the Christmas window displays. Every year without fail gazing into shop windows at the gorgeous Christmas displays always leaves me feeling so festive. And who does it better then London’s most luxurious department store Harrods. This year I loved how they really embraced what I would consider a traditional Christmas, but of course with a glamouous Harrods twist. From the little mice having their own festive celebrations to Santa and his reindeer, I thought it was an extremely cute way of showcasing products and enticing passers by to come have a closer look, after all who can resist those sort of classic holiday scenes. It was almost like projecting a Christmas jumper into a rather huge shop window, and that would be a jumper I  would want to wear!

Scenes from the Mouse household

A Christmas Ballerina

Mr and Mrs Mouse

Eerily beautiful

Wouldn't mind one of those on my tree!
Patchwork rocking horse

Harrods: The land of make believe

I don't know about anyone else, but looking at these is definitely getting me in the Christmas spirit. Not long now!

#MrQuiffy

To accompany their new collection launch that feature Mr Men and Little Miss characters, the House of Holland lot have created a social media campaign in which they have cartoonised Creative Director Henry Holland as a character from Mr Men, calling him Mr Quiffy after Holland’s signature hairstyle. They then have spent the month of October uploading photos from Mr Quiffy's world travels...












To me House of Holland and this campaign in particular is an example of promotion being done right. They're connecting with their consumers, and really embracing social media as a platform for marketing the brand. The Mr Quiffy campaign is a true reflection of the brands aesthetic: playful, tongue and cheek and oh so  fun! When it comes to brands I admire I am genuinely a huge fan of House of Holland and its Creative Director Henry Holland. Not just for the clothes, but for the brands whole image and attitude: it's all about youth and youth culture. Music, fashion, art, fiction, this brands doing it all, and doing it right. 




Fashion on Film: The September Issue


Cover for 2007 September Issue
 featuring Sienna Miller
Fashion is demanding, daring and oh so desirable, and nothing epitomises this quite like the fashion bible itself Vogue. In 2007, the September Issue of Vogue weighed over 5 pounds, was 840 pages long and contained 727 ads. Undoubtably something with that kind of magnitude within the print industry requires a huge amount of hard work and dedication, as well as blood, sweat and tears that stain each page. 
The September Issue is a documentary following the creation and production of this most ambitious issue ever, as well as the “life” of Editor and Chief, Anna Wintour. I say “life” in inverted commas, because I think that was the most lacking element of the entire film, despite it being the area I was most intrigued to see, really it seemed like a bit of a lost opportunity. There was not attempt at exposing the myth of Anna Wintour as “nuclear Wintour” a nickname earned from her renowned frosty exterior and Ice Queen like demeanor. Ultimately the reason for this could just be that it is not a myth at all. Wintour herself does little to discourage the judgements about her with at one point responding the accusations of her being an Ice Woman with “Well it has been very cold this week.” 
Personally I was disappointed with the lack of insight into her actual job role. Yes we see her approving or dismissing other people’s work, but I was more interested in finding out more of what being editor and chief of vogue America consisted of: her day to day routine, her presence on shoots, her own creative input into the magazine. It’s all very well watching her purse her lips at other people’s ideas, but I was hoping the film would expose more of her own “talent” as reportedly the most influential woman in fashion. How did she earn that role, and what justified that amount of prestige to be placed on such a high pedestal? Despite this, I couldn’t help but have a certain amount of respect for the First Lady of fashion. Her take no prisoners approach may be brutal, but there’s no denying it gets the job done. At one point in the film, Creative Director herself Grace Coddington is seen advising a young, fresh faced colleague. “Don’t be too nice,” she tells him, “because you’ll lose. You have to beat your way through.” This appears to be the mantra that Wintour has lived her career by. Yes she’s ruthless, but it’s clear to see everything she does is for the magazine, her obsessiveness and possessiveness is to protect the legacy she has built. She’s not particularly exciting though. Failing to demonstrate any real creativity, and throughout most of the film she just appears bored with the whole saga, with the occasional sarcastic role of the eyes and rather pertinent looking pursed lips. When it comes to Anna Wintour, I think the director has played it too safe. The film doesn’t challenge her, and instead just allows her to glide through this apparently very insular world of worshiping minions and handmaiden assistants. 
Now Grace Coddington is one I feel is portrayed as a far more interesting and dimensional personality. Not afraid to say what she’s thinking, we get the impression that she is the only person ballsy enough to confront Wintour, and the only one Anna will in turn listen to. She is clearly respected by all, with Wintour even referring to her as a genius. It’s easy to see why. Despite her prolific status, she will still personally dress her models instead of delegating the slightly mundane job to someone beneath her, showing a personal touch, and that no job is beneath her. Furthermore some of the editorial shoots the documentary follows are absolutely stunning. Her artistic vision is inspired, with concepts executed so beautifully. My personal favourite was the 1920s flapper girls inspired shoot. I think it beautifully highlighted the class and sophistication of fashion at the time, whilst also playing with the slightly darker more mysterious vibe of the speakeasies and prohibition. 




I think the overarching theme of the film is shear amount of work, man hours and money that is poured into the September issue  of Vogue is staggering. I remember during the film being horrified when at one point Grace Coddington refers to how Anna Wintour had just scrapped $50,000 worth of photo shoot; madness! But moments like that are the ones that remind you of the perfection that Vogue is striving for, and that it’s Editor and Chief will not just allow anything merely good or nice within its pages. I guess that’s why people call it the fashion bible. And well Anna Wintour...She’s the high priestess. 

Alexander Wang for H&M

H&M have done it again. Yet another designer collaboration was debuted this week, and while there has been plenty of hype surrounding the Alexander Wang for H&M partnership, I must say I was a little disappointed. While I’ve always quite liked Wang in the past and was eager like everyone else to see what the collection would look like, now I’ve seen it I can probably say I will not be frantically cuing outside H&M stores for hours to be the first to get my hands on it.


 It’s an interesting concept; Wang describes the collection as being designed to be worn ‘on the street, in the gym, at the club.’ And while I think versatility in fashion is brilliant, the actual practicality of this statement seems a bit iffy. Maybe it’s just me, but I thought the gym and a night out are two very different things that require two very different dress codes... It seems the collection is more for those who want to look like they lead an active lifestyle, with actually minimal activity or athleticism. 
And while it’s tapping into the current move towards sportswear and the influence of R&B in fashion, I personally found some of the items to be pretty ugly. 

Like the black crop top with the slogan ‘this is an Alexander Wang crop top’ embedded on the chest which just seemed utterly unnecessary and ruined the piece. It was probably an attempt at being ironic and funny, yet I just found it looked cheap. Likewise with the sweatshirts with ‘Wang’ plastered across the front of them. I mean really, do I need to be parading where my clothes have come from. I’d feel like a walking billboard. Saying that though there were a couple of pieces I did quite like. 


The mesh jumper for example I found to be wearable but still have that signature Wang flair (without being plastered in his name), and the leather
jogger style trousers that I actually love!





I think much of my negative opinion about the collection is probably down to the fact that I’ve never much embraced the sport/chic look, I tend to be a bit more classic in my taste. Now the Isabelle Marrant collab was something I really did enjoy.Mixing up prints and colour, variations of fabrics, cuts and occasions. 
More classic but still fun, that’s more me. 

The Legend That Is...




Sorry, Anna Wintour who?

High end vs high-street - where do the similarities lie?

High end brands reflect the high-street, and the high-street reflects the high end. This is how fashion has always worked, an overlap of inspiration regardless of price tag or designer credits. Whether it be on the catwalk or sidewalk, fashion is telling the same stories using similar narratives, attitudes and lifestyle aspirations, but just for different market sectors. This is known as Market Level Translation. 

Tasked with identifying the common language that link two brands, I chose to look at the crossover between ChloĆ© and Jigsaw. 



Modern Femininity: taking natural and etherial elements, and throwing in the disclaimer of structured shapes and smart tailoring. With a less is more approach and a concentration on a neutral colour palette, this ensures the focus is more refined as opposed to too girlie or fairy princess. 

JIGSAW

ChloƩ

I then went on to select my own two brands, using the same thought process. 



Super Chic: a wardrobe for the modern woman, elegant and refined inspired by masculine cuts and tailoring. Keeping it simple, with less is more being the key and investing in timeless, classic pieces and that perfect fit. Concentration on solid colours and classic prints: black, white, navy, neutrals; pinstripe, leopard, check. It’s about stealing from the boys and glamourising for the girls.

Yves Saint Laurent

Zara
While it's always interesting to see how designers influence high street brands via the catwalk, it also poses the question as to how designers cope with the pressure of having to keep on top of the high-street and their reactions to the imitations then found in most high street stores. However from a consumer point of view, I will always be thankful of the designer replicas on the high-street. They allow people with modest budgets like myself to not feel like they have to settle for looking crap just because they can't afford that designer price tag. As for myself, I will always be a high-street devotee.