The Return of Galliano

After his controversial departure from the fashion industry for years ago following his anti semitic and racist comments, it looks like John Galliano has officially returned. Choosing to show case his new collection during London Collections Mens, his first collection as the creative director of Maison Martin Margiela and first collection since he was fired from Dior back in 2011. Kate Moss, Christopher Bailey and Manolo Blahnik were all there on the front row, proving he’s still respected as a designer amongst his peers. 

The collection itself was in true Galliano style: surreal and flamboyant, an ‘elaborate fusion of fine drapery and war paint, of sci-fi shoes and the kind of frontline evening dresses that could be used to go into battle.’
Many of the clothes were embellished with junk metal jewellery, while a leopard print leotard was decorated with shells and beads, and a tunic dress adorned with black plastic toy cars. 
In the past, Galliano was all about fantasy, his Dior days about whimsical, unattainable and extraordinary couture. And he has very much returned with the same aesthetic. 

While I’m not a fan of his personally, (actually to be quite frank he repulses me a little) I can’t deny that as a designer he is something rather special. His innovation and experimentation is admirable and his designs memorable. There is no doubt that John Galliano is back to stay, and back with a bang. 

The entire collection was based on black, red and white.

The creative genius that is… Nick Knight

Nick Knight is without a doubt one of the most successful photographers of all time. You may think it a bold statement, but with a career spanning over 30 years and countless achievements under his belt, it is one I am happy to stick to.
He is one of the worlds most influential and visionary photographers, with a reputation for pushing boundaries both technically and creatively. I love that despite predominantly being a fashion photographer, he still challenges the conventional idea of beauty.
His first book 'Skinhead' gives an insight into the 80s culture, the origins and the progression. A subculture that don't necessarily fit into the conventional beauty bracket, Knight presents the Skinhead worldview in all its ambiguity.

Photography is about having an impact on whoever views your photos, and that's exactly what Knight achieves.

This is taken from the shoot Knight did of Lady Gaga for her Born This Way album. It looks like she's covered in a combination of entrails, slime and a squid in there somewhere too. It's fairly disgusting, but isn't that the point, if a photo doesn't stir a reaction, then really is it any good?

This is one of my all time favourite photos ever. I love how in one still image, Knight has been able to capture so much movement and energy. It looks more like a still frame from a video than a photograph. As well as being visually abstract, it is also abstract in meaning, playing on Knight's surrealist background. It's a busy image that flows effortlessly, as if the models themselves are suspended in water. 

An image is worth a thousand words, and these are just a few of my favourites. 

Stylists get over it… Animal masks

If one more stylist sticks a rabbit head on a model and calls it fashion I swear I'm going to scream! Is it just me that is completely sick to death of every editorial shoot looking like scene from Watership Down (rabbits seem to be the masks of choice). The bit that annoys me about their repetitive use is that they just seem to be completely unrelated to the shoot in question, and have just been thrown in a the last minute because the stylist realised their look was boring. Well news flash, the head of a farm animal doesn't make it that much more interesting. Can we all just agree to leave the heads right where they belong, on the body of an animal, not some Shoreditch model. 

Fashion in Hollywood

A little while ago we had a lecture on iconic film stars from the 19 hundreds. I was familiar with a quite a few of them, mainly the obvious ones like Audrey Hepburn, James Dean and Frank Sinatra, though I did manage some of the more obscure lesser known ones too!

This for me was a really enjoyable, interesting lecture, one that gave a huge insight into an area that influences fashion so much. 

Ever since silent pictures, Hollywood has been paving the way for fashion trends for decades. From the wide collars, flared trousers and vivid colour dresses of Saturday Night Fever which reflected the disco scene at the time, to Breakfast at Tiffany's with the perfect little black dress.

And it's not just looking at  how specific films influence trends, but also how these iconic film stars and models, and their signature looks have inspired fashion shoots and editorials of today. 

Keira Knightly as Twiggy with her iconic eyes and lashes.

Michelle Pfeiffer as Louise Brooks for Vogue 1991
Deco, angular beauty

Giselle recreates the famous Brigitte Bardot pose

Amber Heard as Marilyn Monroe for Guess

Fashion is constantly borrowing from the past, and Hollywood is one of the biggest contributors to that. The influence films have on trends is one that may have wained with more modern films, but the classics and the icons of the day still continue to have major impact on fashion image of the 21st century. I hope it is something we never stop being influenced by, because seeing these types of editorials is a reminder of a whole different era and lifestyle, one I wish I could have seen. 

Stylists get over it...

To go along side the collections of boards I have on Pinterest, I thought I would create a little series of blog posts discussing trends we are so bored of seeing in fashion image, and that have just been worked to death. 

First I want to start with frames. Circa 2007 they were still vaguely original, with Tim Walker still shooting with them for Vogue, so they must have had some appeal. But the more they diffused to be used in non high fashion editorials, the less acceptable they have become, being regarded more now as an amateur prop. 

Worse still they have become the newly weds cliche, the Pinterest pose of choice. No self respecting stylist would now even dream of using them for fear of the ridicule they would face from their peers, or you know, just thinking they're a bit stupid ;)

The only way I can see them working now is for the mockery and irony opportunities. Though unless the stylist realises it's ironic, then really it's just tragic.  

Looks like frames have had their day (well had it a while ago), time to chuck them on the fire, the wood makes good kindling!

Here's my Pinterest board on frames, plenty more pictures on there. 

Draw Me David Downton

I think sometimes fashion illustrations are overlooked as just being a tool in the process of creating a final outcome. But to me I think they can be acknowledged as art in their own right. David Downton for me is one of the most talented fashion illustrators of today. His illustrations are so simple, yet come across as being much more detailed and creating these beautifully delicate images.

What I enjoy about his work is that it's so loose and so free, with the quick brush strokes really identifying with that sense of spontaneity that can sometimes be forgotten amongst the regimented production of fashion garments.

Love all the colours, textures and transparencies. Every image has so much dynamism yet still retain the look of simplicity.

Commercial clients include Tiffany's New York, SAKS 5th Avenue, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Burberry and the British Fashion Council, so his prestige is one that is regarded by almost everyone in the industry.

I just love how in these digitally driven times, David Downton's hand drawn images capture the femininity and glamour of fashion that I love so much.